Veja, a trailblazing shoe brand born in 2004, has emerged as a beacon of hope in an industry marred by pollution and exploitation. Founded by Sébastien Kopp and François-Ghislain Morillion, Veja set out to redefine the narrative of shoemaking by prioritizing ethical practices and environmental responsibility.
The Amazon Connection
The roots of Veja’s journey intertwine with the lush landscapes of the Amazon. In 2004, Kopp and Morillion ventured to North Brazil, forging partnerships with organic cotton farmers and wild rubber tappers, known as seringueiros. The aim was to establish a sustainable production chain that would reflect the brand’s commitment to environmental conservation and fair labor practices. Working in the Brazilian state of Acre, on the cusp of the Amazon rainforest, Veja confronted the stark reality of deforestation. The legacy of environmentalist Chico Mendes, who lost his life in the battle against ranchers in 1988, loomed large. Veja’s mission became intertwined with the protection of the forest and supporting the communities dependent on it.
The Material Alchemy
Veja’s commitment to sustainability manifests in the choice of materials. Trainers and accessories crafted by Veja feature organic cotton, wild rubber sourced from the Amazon, vegetable-tanned leather, and even repurposed plastic bottles. The rubber, collected by seringueiros, not only creates durable shoe soles but also fosters a symbiotic relationship between the local communities and the forest.
Since 2006, Veja has embraced vegetable-tanned leather, eliminating the use of chrome – a common pollutant in traditional tanning processes. The brand also utilizes waterproof bottle mesh made from recycled plastic bottles collected from the streets of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.
Social Responsibility
Veja’s commitment extends beyond environmental consciousness to social responsibility. The brand collaborates with cooperatives of small producers and social associations in Brazil and France. While the company claims fair trade conditions, there is a call for increased transparency, with social audits and certificates becoming integral to affirming these standards.
The production journey of Veja sneakers spans Brazil to France, emphasizing a sustainable logistics approach. The pricing model, detached from market fluctuations, ensures stable income for cotton producers, empowering them with financial security.
Fair Trade Practices
Veja’s fair trade principles resonate in their direct collaboration with producers. By pre-financing harvests up to 50%, the brand supports organic cotton cultivation well in advance, allowing producers to plan and invest in their farms. Contracts signed at the beginning of the year establish the cotton price, ensuring a market-uncorrelated income for the producers.
Veja prioritizes chemical transparency, constantly analyzing sneaker safety to eliminate toxic elements. As of October 2021, suppliers must adhere to the VEJA Restricted Substances Policy, reducing hazardous chemicals in materials.
Since its inception in 2004, Veja has been on a mission to revolutionize the footwear industry by intertwining ethical practices with stylish designs. One key aspect of their commitment is the pricing strategy for their organic and agroecological cotton, a move that sets them apart in a market driven by fluctuations.
At Veja, the pricing of cotton is a thoughtful process that involves setting the price in advance through agreements with producer associations in Brazil and Peru. This proactive approach, in place since 2004, ensures a level of financial security for the producers that goes beyond the unpredictability of market forces.
In 2022, Veja is paying R$ 24.77 per kilo of cotton, a figure determined before the cotton is even planted. This deliberate choice to detach the price from market fluctuations enhances the financial stability of the producers. This year, Veja has taken it a step further by increasing incentives for those employing agroecological practices, underlining their commitment to sustainable farming methods.
The foresight in setting prices is a stark contrast to conventional market dynamics, where producers often grapple with uncertainty. Veja’s approach empowers producers by providing clarity on their earnings before the cultivation process begins, fostering a sense of security that transcends the traditional vulnerabilities of the market.
In 2021, Veja paid R$18.72 per kilo of cotton, a figure that not only includes a bonus for the producer but also supports the operations of the associations. This strategic allocation of funds highlights Veja’s dedication not just to producing sneakers but to fostering a sustainable ecosystem that benefits all stakeholders.
Looking back at 2020, Veja paid R$17.70 per kilo of cotton lint, nearly 50% more than the market price. This deliberate overpayment underscores Veja’s commitment to fair trade and organic raw materials, a choice that contributes to a more equitable economic approach throughout the production chain.
The cost of producing Veja sneakers stands out in the market, being five times more than that of other brands. This significant price differential is not just a reflection of premium craftsmanship and design but is deeply rooted in the brand’s commitment to fair trade, organic sourcing, and supporting the livelihoods of those involved in the production chain.
Veja’s dedication to economic ethics doesn’t end with pricing. The brand actively invests in research and new technologies, ensuring a continuous commitment to innovation that aligns with their values. This investment is a testament to Veja’s holistic approach, acknowledging that sustainable practices are not only about the materials used but also about staying at the forefront of advancements that can shape a more sustainable future.
As consumers increasingly seek transparency and ethical practices in their purchases, Veja stands as a beacon of responsible consumerism. The economic choices they make reverberate throughout the production chain, embodying a commitment to fairness, sustainability, and a future where fashion is not just about style but about the values we wear.
No Advertisements, Real Impact
In a bold move, Veja has abandoned traditional advertising, opting to invest in “reality rather than fiction.” With no marketing costs, the brand directs resources toward the well-being of those involved in the production chain, defying industry norms where a significant portion of a sneaker’s cost is allocated to advertising.
What’s Next
Veja’s commitment to sustainable development extends to its product releases. The recent unveiling of the Campo marked a significant milestone, but according to Kopp, there’s more in the pipeline. Collaborations, projects, and releases are on the horizon, all aligned with Veja’s vision of ethical and sustainable footwear.
In a world inundated with fast fashion and questionable practices, Veja shines as a beacon of conscious consumerism, proving that style and sustainability can coexist on the same pair of shoes. As Veja continues to forge ahead, their journey exemplifies that the future of fashion lies not just in the shoes we wear but in the steps we take towards a more sustainable and compassionate world.
Source: https://project.veja-store.com/ (text and graphics)
